Dispelling the myths on thread count
So the higher the thread count, the higher the quality, right? No, not necessarily. High thread count doesn’t mean much if the threads that are being counted are not of high quality. There are actually four different factors that should be considered if you want to get a true understanding of fabric quality. These include:

1. Fibre Quality
2. Yarn Size
3. Finishing
4. Thread Count & Construction
Longer fibers make sturdier fabric
Fabric with a thread count of 200 high quality fibres is very likely to feel smoother and be more durable than a thread count of 400 inferior quality fibres.
So how do we determine the quality of a fiber? By its length - which is referred to as the staple. So why is longer better? Longer fibers can be combed finer to remove more small fibers which allows the cotton to be spun into a finer textured thread. This makes the finished product much more durable and more resistant to pilling. The most common type of cotton is known as Upland cotton, whilst Egyptian and Pima (Supima) cottons are known for their extra long fibres.
Look for a fine thread
Yarn size is used to describe the fineness of the yarn.
Finer yarns allow for a lighter, tighter weave. The logic is reversed in that the higher the number the finer the fiber. The yarn size of quality sheets will normally be between 40 and 100 and you can find yarns as fine as 120, but they are very rare (and expensive)
Higher thread counts are created with finer yarns, because more of them can be woven into a square inch. Also, super fine yarns can be twisted together in order to create 2 ply yarns which, when woven together, can create a light, high quality fabric.
The finishing makes all the difference
After the cotton yarns are woven into a fabric, the fabric needs to be finished. This includes singeing and mercerizing. The singeing process is essential; the process involves burning off the tiny fuzz which can later develop into pilling. Mercerization is a treatment conducted under tension, in order to increase the strength, lustre and affinity for dye. Not all bed linen is put through these processes as it adds to the production costs, however they are absolutely essential in creating high quality fabrics.
Thread Count & Construction
Thread count is the number of threads per square inch of fabric. Sounds simple, yeah? However, due to people’s belief that the higher the thread count the better the sheet, marketers have founds ways and means to inflate the thread count listed on the package. See my other articles for more on this.
